Sunday, November 25, 2012

FOUR SEASONS, pressed into one week

Everyone of course knows that in the wet tropics there are but two seasons in a year: the wet or rainy season and the dry months, when it rains a bit less.
But then I noticed that a tree across from my apartment was rapidly losing its leaves, and I mean rapidly, it took not more than two days till nothing but nude branches remained. It reminded me of a European autumn in miniature as it affected just one tree in the neighbourhood.  What had happened? Maybe someone had ring-barked it, or a disease…
I had taken a photo when the leaves had turned brown and were falling. That was on September 22.
Can you understand my surprise when a few days later new leaves appeared, and that shortly thereafter the tree was covered by a full, light green canopy again.

Autumn,  22 September 2012


Spring-Summer,
30 September 2012









 

Thursday, October 11, 2012

MEMORIES, BELIEFS AND THE PERSONAL MAP OF REALITY

My memory of summers in Europe is the smell of smoke from a coal-fired locomotive; the endless ra-tà-ra-tà-ra-tà of the wheels on the rail tracks; the grey poverty and desolation of the German post-war railway stations (so many of them on the trip from my home in the Netherlands to my grandmother in Switzerland); getting out at the borders and lugging the suitcases past customs and back into the train; and finally the wooden benches of the slow train of the last stretch, so hard but so clean… this was Switzerland where the railways had been electrified, food was not rationed and my favourite Lindt, Caillier or Toblerone chocolates was freely available—depending of course on grandmother's willingness to buy it for her brood, grandchildren alone there were six, two from Holland and four locals, that is, originally from Germany but they had moved in with my grandmother the moment they got travel permits after the war.
After rereading the above paragraph I wonder what happened to all the summers I enjoyed after I stopped going to Switzerland… camping in Yugoslavia and Corsica; driving a Vespa all the way to Barcelona only to find the hotly pursued girlfriend in love with someone else; or the summers I didn't go anywhere because I couldn't afford it, but still enjoyed the long lazy days…
So why Switzerland and the train journey through post-war Germany? I'm talking here about WW-II, not the more recent ones such as Iraq, or even Vietnam, which, as far as I have observed, already fades from our collective memories. What makes those Swiss summers stand out?
Uncomplicated happiness of a pre-adolescent boy, and not only pre-adolescent, but also highly impressionable, is most likely the number one explanation. Endless days with so many exciting activities that even the chores, strictly assigned by grandmother, like picking cherries and red currants, weeding the flowerbeds and mowing the lawn, were nothing but minor ripples on perfect summer days. The imprints those summers left on me have clearly outshone and outlasted all subsequent ones, even the summer when, on a Swedish beach, I made love for the first time. That was at a later age, still adolescent, but not so impressionable anymore.
The capacity to be easily influenced, is something one loses with age, and the older one gets, the less open one is to new ideas, opinions, beliefs. Stated differently, the window through which we look at the world is getting more and more opaque over the years, which thus directly affects our capacity to observe and absorb new impressions and new views. Although I implied as much in the previous sentences, it is important to understand that it is not an age-related process like facial wrinkles, but results from our growing desire to protect the self, and our fear of change and inborn laziness.
From the moment we are born we are subjected to a continuous flow of data which we store in our memory bank where it is processed. The resulting information is then entered on our (Personal) Map of Reality, which is our personal representation of the world around us. This map thus contains the information that was instilled into us, especially during our impressionable early years, by parents, teachers, role models such as sportsmen, actors/actresses, authors or even fictional characters, together with joyful or traumatic past experiences, knowledge, traditions, and our own thoughts and reflections. Some of these map entries might even be hardwired into our system, as the following example suggests.
In an interesting study, primary school children in Germany were shown a picture of three zebras standing in a group with their heads together, a fourth zebra was standing apart and this fourth one was not striped vertically like the others, but horizontally. Asked for their opinion, the children unanimously stated that the fourth zebra was bad and not allowed into the group… because it was different.
Although strongest during the formative years, the process goes on. We constantly make, adjust, distort and discard beliefs and update our vision of reality. Without the beliefs and the resulting map we would not be able to navigate our world and/or take action.
However, the map is but a representation, not the territory! And as anyone who has ever used a map will ascertain, maps are full of errors, or at best incomplete. In other words, many of our decisions and actions are based on faulty information, and thus will lead us up the wrong path.
Think of the following illustrations. Until in 1953 Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay reached the summit of mount Everest, it was believed that it could not be done and the foolhardy few who tried and failed, proved the belief. Nowadays it is almost a weekend excursion—in 2007 over 600 climbers made it to the top. A similar belief occurred in respect of the four-minute mile. Nobody, it was said, can run a mile in less than four minutes. That is, until Roger Bannister accomplished the feat in 1954. Since then it is no longer very noteworthy, as even high school students have managed to do so. And how is it that Denmark, a country with a population of less than 6m, continuously produces top badminton players, while Indonesia's 240m are barely scraping by. It looks to me that Danes are born with the belief that they are top players, while Indonesia has lost faith, the same way that Tiger Woods does not believe in his supreme capabilities anymore.
The above leads to the reversal of the statement seeing is believing. The correct sequence is believing is seeing (or doing for that matter).
The lesson here is that we are unquestionably able to change our beliefs, our Map of Reality, and thus our actions. Once we see that our personal maps are imperfect, our old beliefs are being challenged, and we are presented with an opportunity to change our map and the underlying beliefs. Check for yourself, what do you think of, or how do you rate, the various ethnic groups around you, and what are your general views on religion—sectarian, non-sectarian or secular? And have any changes recently taken place in your beliefs, that is, have changes been forced upon you from the outside world, or are they a result of your own observations and analysis?
Look at it like this: if you have observed the world through a pair of green-tinted glasses you will not have been able to see the colour white, as all colours will have had a green hue and white was therefore greened-out. Now imagine what startling changes you would observe if you were to lose your glasses. The primal reaction would probably be to run and get another pair… But wouldn't it be a perfect opportunity to adjust and update your beliefs!
This would not be easy—remember our fear of change and inborn laziness! And most of all it would require complete personal honesty and willingness to admit our (green and other) biases. Wow, that hurts.
Would it then be suitable for a government sponsored educational programme? I'm afraid not, as it would result in a standardised curriculum to be presented (or force-fed) by teachers who themselves would not necessarily believe in the need for a cleansing of the old maps and updating our database of beliefs. They would be poor teachers and the wrong role models, and certainly not suitable to bring about the necessary changes.
So what then? The promised Age of Aquarius (some of you readers might remember the 1970s and the musical Hair) has till now not materialised, yet. Do we just wait a bit longer, or is there anything we can do while waiting?
I don't know. But if you have an idea, please let me know.

Saturday, September 8, 2012

GECKO – a short term visitor

Living on the tenth floor has the advantage of beautiful views and relatively little street noise. Contact with urban wildlife is, however, all but non-existent. An occasional swift flits by, but pigeons and sparrows remain at the height of the tree canopies, about half-way down from my level. No stray cats on the roof, no rats, nothing… No, that’s not completely true. There are ants, many of them, the small soft and very fast type. Crumbs or spilled sauce left on the kitchen table will attract them in no time. And when I follow their trail it inevitably leads out to the balcony and on. Where would their nest be, where is their queen birthing more members of the colony than I can wipe in my efforts to keep my food for myself. Would the nest be ten floors down, in between the roots of the trees lining the road? Imagine, climbing all the way up to my kitchen and when lucky, not being detected and finding food, having to descend all the way down again… In human terms that would be something like walking from Jakarta to Bogor and back with a morsel of something to feed not yourself, but the queen, or the colony. No wonder there are that many of them.
And then there suddenly was this tiny little gecko. A wee little fellow, definitely not able to swallow more than half a mosquito. He clung to the wall above the standing lamp—instinct, hard-wired into his DNA, as that is where the flying insects eventually end up. But I worried about his food intake. This apartment being screened on all doors and windows, where would the necessary food come from? I felt so sorry that I opened the screen doors to the balcony hoping that it would increase his food supply.
For several consecutive days, or rather evenings, he was still there, quite unafraid when I approached. And then, yesterday when I wanted to take a picture of him for this blog, he was nowhere to be found. I looked behind the curtains and the TV, I checked behind the paintings on his favourite wall, and searched again in the places I had examined already… nothing.
I hope I won't find him one of these days, desiccated with ants taking his edible parts down to their queen. I hope he will have realised that this apartment is no Garden of Eden for geckoes and have moved on to greener pastures so to say, out and down to where mosquitoes are more plentiful.
Such a pity that geckoes don't eat ants, it would have solved both our problems.

Monday, August 27, 2012

SWEDEN – such a pity that its food is not available globally

Last month I was in Stockholm, in widen that is, not Stockholm, Wisconsin—interesting place that, Wikipedia states it is a village in Wisconsin, US, founded in 1854 by immigrants from Karlskoga, Sweden, and the 2010 census puts the population at 66. The Stockholm Merchants' Association, however, paints a different picture—a small village… big arts, captured under the banner:
Fine Arts, Culinary Arts, Performing Arts, The Art of Living Well
One of the "Best Small Town Getaways" in the Midwest: Midwest Living Best of the Midwest 2010
And either the census is wrong, or many of the establishments listed—antique shop, restaurants, hotels, B&Bs, winery and cidery, gifts, and many more—are located in the larger area, not within the Stockholm village boundaries.
But that is all an aside. What I wanted to write about is Swedish food. So good and so rarely found outside Sweden. While there I enjoyed the meatballs, the crispbreads, salted butter (really salted with coarse sea salt), fried herring & mashed potatoes, salmon in a variety of ways… and Polish ice cream—Polish? how come Polish? Don't know, but it was goooood.
The Swedish institution, IKEA, sells, apart from it furniture and household articles, a nice variety of Swedish food items. When back in Holland I went to the nearest outlet and bought the crispbreads that would not have survived the return trip from Sweden, together with the best cake you can imagine. No idea what it is called, but it consisted of an almond and chocolate filling inside a delicious crispy pie.
I have read that an IKEA shop (for household items, not furniture, if I remember correctly) will open in a year or two in Jakarta. With a bit of luck food will be included.
Till then, for those not living near a Swedish food outlet, here is a wonderful cookbook with delicious recipes and ingredients that should be available in most locations, except maybe for the lingonberries or cloudberries. The title is  VERY SWEDISH, and the writers are  Annica Triberg, Per Ranung and Tore Hagman.
Enjoy.
  

Saturday, July 21, 2012

RECONNECTING – with friends and family not seen for decennia

Several years ago, in Yogyakarta, the address book I had kept since graduating, well not the exact same, as they do fall to pieces after years of intensive use, but the old addresses were entered into replacement versions, unless I decided to the contrary, was stolen. From one day to the next I had lost all means of contacting a lifetime of friends. Have you ever had the same experience? I felt lost, abandoned, utterly helpless, naked. Rape probably has a similar effect on the victim.
It took quite some time and effort to compile a new set of entries. Of course a number of the original names, telephone numbers and addresses could not be retrieved. However, the overall effect on my daily routine proved to be rather limited as, first, the missing ones were apparently not part of my then circles of interactive affairs. Second, I realised that the person might still be alive—at my age I live with an increasing stream of dwindling numbers—but the address not (what's the use of a name with an expired address); and third, in many cases I didn't even know who was missing.
Among the missing entries there is David P, last known location Cambridge, and no amount of googling turned up the person I'm looking for. And then of course there is Alexander vS, last seen in Frankfurt a/Main in 1969, that is 43 years ago! The third one in this line-up is Robert V. While not lost in respect of no idea where and what—being a high ranking civil servant, public sector records provided details of his whereabouts—I nevertheless had lost contact with him since the late 70s when I moved to Indonesia.
Before I left on my visit of Europe—OK, only part of it, but Stockholm, Munich, Amsterdam, The Hague, Rotterdam and Bussum cover quite a chunk of it.
Google found Alexander on my smart phone, but strangely enough not on my laptop, should the two browser not come up with the same results? Any way, I got a telephone number and I got through to him. Hansje, he exclaimed, is that really you? Of course he wanted to know how I had found him and where I was and for how long. We alternated providing some key elements of our lives of the past four decades, or what at that moment we thought was important to relay. We regretfully concluded that we did not have the opportunity to meet before I returned to Indonesia, and after exchanging email addresses we hung up.
The contact with Robert had been re-established through LinkedIn and before arriving in Holland we had already agreed to meet. Slightly apprehensive I set off to have dinner at his house. But upon seeing him, after all these 30+ years, it was as if we had last met the week before. Several times that night we expressed our surprise and delight about this and decided to have lunch before I would leave to delve into our days all those years ago in Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Trengganu, Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau and Manila. We did, and though it was a miserable rainy day—just walking the few hundred meters from the bus stop to the café got me soaked—it was as joyful as the dinner at his house.
And, while in Munich visiting aunt Selma, I also met her son, cousin Dominik, last seen some 50 years go when he was 10. He is now a famous director of German films and TV, and with him too, we exchanged email addresses and agreed to remain in contact.
Remains David P. But who knows, one day he might suddenly appear out of the digital aether of the internet.

Monday, June 11, 2012

MOVING – to the new apartment

Finally. After repeated promises by the contractor that tomorrow everything will be ready, we have finally made it to the new apartment. No great distance involved. Just from tower one to tower two, same floor and same unit number. The new apartment is the mirror image of the old one, which leads to quite a lot of confusion. The fridge is no longer to the left when entering the kitchen, and the dining table is now to the right when entering the apartment.
But what joy to see the books on the shelves rather than boxed, and the paintings and maps on the walls. Bought myself a new drill, a Bosch  GSB 16 RE Professional, and spent the whole of yesterday drilling holes and hanging the pictures. And the books, tiring to put them up, but finally they are accessible again.

The best part of the apartment is the bathroom. Rather than stepping into a bathtub and drawing a plastic curtain to take a shower, now it is a real shower one steps into for a real rain-shower experience—a large shower head to soak you, and if you want to hold the shower head in your hand you turn the knob for this second option. The tiles in the cubicle are anti-slip… so simply enjoy.
And the view is old and new Jakarta combined: the red-tile roofs of old, and high rise apartments of the past decade.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

FRANCOIS VALENTIJN – preacher, plagiarist, encyclopaedist

For someone generally referred to as the Preacher of Ambon, the epitaph of plagiarist with a tendency for self-aggrandisement does not seem to be fitting. Or am I naïve… Anyway, according to my sources[1] he was both.
Born in Dordrecht where his father was deputy principal of the Latin school he read theology, philosophy and related subjects in Utrecht and Leiden. In 1684 he finished his studies and was called as a minister to the Netherlands Indies where he arrived in Batavia end-December 1685, and in April 1686 Amboina. Under the guidance of among others Rumphius he quickly mastered the Malay language and in slightly more than three months he was able to conduct his first service in early-August of that year. Against his bitter objections he was subsequently posted on Banda—he was forced to take the position as his superiors told him that it was Banda or nothing, with repayment of the travelling expenses Amsterdam-Batavia-Amboina. After 11 months on Banda he returned to Amboina (1688) where he started the translation of the Bible into Ambon Malay, and the search for a wealthy wife. This latter task was accomplished in 1692 when he married Cornelia Snaats, widow of his friend and patron Hendrik Leydekker, who had left Cornelia four children and a significant fortune. May 1694 he returned to Holland accompanied by wife and five children—four Leydekkers and one Valentijn. He returned to Dordrecht and was ready to settle down. At the request of the Compagnie and persuaded by many friends he, however,  agreed to return to the East.
Although the VOC Board had agreed to his condition that he would be posted in Amboina—and only Amboina, without any obligation to visit the outlying islands—upon arrival in Batavia he was assigned the post of army chaplain for a campaign in East Java.
Quite obviously the masters in Batavia and Amsterdam had different sets of priorities, a situation that also nowadays is not uncommon in globally operating organisations.
Message Regional Office to HQ:  we need an additional marketing unit, our geographic region superimposed on Europe would stretch from Ireland to Moscow, you have representatives in nearly all countries in that area, we have to service that area by ourselves.
No doubt Valentijn complained bitterly, but in the same way as during his first tour, he had to comply. Worn out he returned to Batavia after four months in the field. Finally, early-1707 he could continue his journey to Ambon. A further reason for complaint concerned his translation of the Bible. The VOC principles in Batavia did not approve his translation into Ambon Malay, They insisted on the use of High Malay. This fight dragged on and the Compagnie even threatened to disallow his return—at their expense.
Permission to return home was finally given in 1713 and after a difficult return voyage he settled again in Dordrecht. There he devoted himself fully to his Oud en Nieuw Oost-Indiën—more than 5,000 pages of text and over a thousand maps and illustrations which took Valentijn 15 years to complete; and in an astonishing burst of speed was printed within four years, with the last volume published some eight months before his death in 1727.
Old and New East Indies, consisting of five parts published in eight volumes, was the first encyclopaedia of the Indonesian archipelago and surrounding regions and contained sections on Amboina and the Moluccas, North and East Celebes, New Guinea, Makassar, Batavia, Java, Sumatra, China, Formosa, Japan, Persia, Coromandel, Bengal, Ceylon, Malacca, the Cape of Good Hope, and Mauritius. Plus, the lives of the Great Moguls, the Governor Generals of the Netherlands East Indies, flora and fauna of Amboina, Amboina church affairs, and accounts of his two (return) voyages to the Indies.
The systematic arrangement of this magnum opus is a bit chaotic: Sumatra, for instance, is given a place between Malacca and Ceylon (Sri Lanka), while Celebes (Sulawesi) is partially covered in Part 1 and also in Part 3. And yes, he used material of others and did not always specify original sources. And yes, it is an opinionated hotchpotch of information. Valentijn displays a lack of interest and knowledge—typical for his epoch—about the native peoples of the different islands. Of the Javanese he for instance writes that the men are typically murderous, perfidious and cruel… but also ready to cowardly knife someone for a few copper coins. And in respect of the Sumatrans (all ethnic groups of the island combined into one) he maintains that it is not necessary to describe them in detail as they do not much differ from the Javanese. But still, it is the first encyclopaedia of the region and until now retains information of great value—his maps, for instance, are exceptionally accurate, and his description of Ambon and Batavia shed light on conditions of these two places that have not been recorded anywhere else.
The amount and detail of information is moreover staggering, from the number of craftsmen by skill in a certain year in Sri Lanka, and the names and years of assignment of the heads of the Dutch trading post on Deshima Island in Nagasaki harbour, to a lion hunt in the Cape.
The whole eight volumes have been reprinted in facsimile and some parts are available from Amazon. For those interested to see more I recommend the following URL which will take you to Part 5.


http://archive.org/stream/oudennieuwoostin05vale#page/n384/mode/thumb
Enjoy!




[1]   Encyclopaedie van Nederlandsch-Indië, Martinus Nijhoff, 1919
        ARCENGEL History of Netherlands East Indies
        Wikipedia

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

BALI – before the tourists invaded... (2)

During the centuries, all nine Balinese kings—Klungkung, Karangasem, Mengwi, Badung, Bangli, Tabanan, Gianjar, Buleleng, and Jembrana—remained an unruly and obstinate lot, fiercely independent and not in the least interested in following the rules and regulations that the Dutch wanted to impose on them. They strongly objected to the curtailment of their power. Those pesky Dutch wanted to stop the nearly incessant fighting among the kingdoms, while not giving thought to how their demand for slaves would then be met. The rajas would also no longer be allowed to attack and plunder ships flying the red-white-and-blue, and not even have the right to cargo salvaged from ships stranded on their coasts.
Only in 1839 did all kings agree to recognise Dutch sovereignty. But whatever treaty was signed, its actual enactment was poor. The kings (all nine) remained stroppy and showed in no uncertain way that they did not agree to colonial power being superimposed on them. Unsurprisingly the colonial government did not stop complaining that its representatives were not received in a friendly and courteous manner, Dutch ships were plundered, and that letters from the Governor General were not responded to. This lead to a series of expeditions to punish the—some of them successful, quite a number not.
One wonders, however, what priority Bali was given in the colonial policy of the Dutch. The VOC's, and later the colonial government's, main interest was trade, and in that respect Bali had little to offer. Slaves were no longer a traded commodity after the British handed the Netherlands East Indies back to the Dutch, and Bali lacked the spices of Banda and Ambon, or the large foreign owned estates (coffee, tea, rubber) of Java and Sumatra.
Supremacy of the Dutch was not fully established till the twentieth century when in 1906, the raja of Badung, together with members of the nobility, some of his wives and children, and members of the royal household, marched into the gunfire of the Dutch troops, preferring death over a curtailment of his royal power and having to bend his knee to the Dutch. This puputan was repeated two years later in Klungkung. And after the remaining unruly elements were deported to Lombok, law and order was established. Dutch law and order, that is. Dutch sources of the day report that the common people were not sorry to see the kings go, as they had had enough of the lack of legal certainty (for the non-privileged) and the continual state of war that had been part of the old system.
That the population felt relieved might even be true and not wishful thinking on the part of the Dutch. According to the anthropologist Clifford Geertz[1] it is the Balinese who have the entrepreneurial drive to look for opportunities and to benefit from changing conditions. Whether made possible by the imposition of the new law and order, or because improved transport facilities opened Bali to the world, tourism started to become a profitable service activity.
Although negligible by present day standards, the number of tourists in 1930 was large enough to warrant the first tourist guide to Bali[2]. As an illustration of the Balinese entrepreneurial nous, the writer of the tourist guide, G.H. von Faber, remarks that woodcarvings of quality were becoming difficult to find, as carvers and traders, having noted that the tourists were undiscerning in their appreciation of the products, would prefer to produce virtually mass produced low-quality work and thereby improve their cash flow.
The 136 lorries, 264 busses and 787 rental cars, part of which were serving the tourist industry in 1930, have grown and grown and are still growing. Kuta, which in those days was a quaint fishing village with a beach and a government cabana to change into bathing costumes, has outgrown itself. Hotels, restaurants, bars, cafés, shops and market stands cater to the tourists' needs—cold beer, continental and American breakfasts at all hours, beach wear, souvenirs, it's all available at reasonable prices. What's more, thousands of foreigners have started a business, or taken up residence on the island, finding the official paperwork to get permits and licenses fairly easy, definitely when compared to other places in Indonesia.
If only the VOC, and later the colonial government, had let the kings keep their beachcombing rights, and sent tourists and cruise ships rather than Navy flotillas and marines, would not the Balinese, the common people, have brought about a smooth, silent and bloodless power change from the inside.

Sources:       Encyclopaedie van Nederlandsch-Indië, Martinus Nijhoff, 's Gravenhage, 1917
                  BALI, Het Land Der Duizend Tempels, G.H. von Faber, H. van Ingen, Soerabaia


[1] Peddlers and Princes, Social Development and Economic Change in Two Indonesian Towns, Clifford Geertz, The University of Chicago Press, 1963. A comparative study of two Indonesian towns—Modjokuto, a market town in East Java, and Tabanan, a court town in southwest Bali.
[2] BALI, het land der duizend tempels, G.H. von Faber