Sunday, May 24, 2015

HANOI – sights and more

Such an amazing city, especially in comparison to Jakarta, my residence. The total population of Greater Hanoi, that is the administrative region, was 7.1m in 2014, or 2.9m for the urban part and the remainder spread out over "rural" Hanoi. Nearly three million people, a great many cars and even more motorcycles and scooters in the city proper, and yet no traffic jams. And development appears to take place at an astonishing speed—the new Noi Bai airport and a new six-lane highway connecting it to Hanoi; new roads inside the town and flyovers being constructed; new high-rise offices, shopping centres, hotels, apartments. Exactly four years ago I was here on a project-assignment, the hotel I stayed (in the old town) was at six floors the largest building in the narrow street, now it is dwarfed by a fancy recent addition to the Hanoi hotel-world. And in contrast to Jakarta, the developmental activities appear to work as intended and are completed on time—the new highway, for example, is of superb quality and includes a magnificent bridge across the Red River.
Located on the right bank of the Red River, Hanoi marked its one-thousand years as a city in October 2010. It had been inhabited long before, since somewhere around 3000 BC in fact, but it was Emperor Ly Thai To who in 1010 moved his capital there. He renamed it Thang Long (Soaring Dragon) as he claimed to have seen a dragon rising from the Red River. In 1802 the capital was moved to Hué by Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen dynasty. In 1831 Thang Long was named Hanoi, and from 1902 to 1953 it served as the capital of French Indochina. And finally, after 30 years of war, Hanoi became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam in 1976.

Sights worth a visit.
The nearly four kilometres long Ceramic Road, based on the idea of journalist Nguyen Thu Thuy to transform the dyke system around Hanoi into a ceramic mosaic in celebration of 1000-years-Hanoi, was officially entered into the Guinness Book of World Records on 5 October 2010 as the largest mosaic in the world. It could even be called an international cooperative effort as foreign contributions can also be identified—see for instance the Spanish mosaic with its bottle of Rioja 2010 and the text Vamos a la Playa; and a bit further down Dutch windmills and tulips can also be identified. Definitely worth a visit.






























In my previous blog I already mentioned that a stroll through the Old Town is highly enjoyable. Its 36 streets, some wide and others very narrow, are full of life. In the past these streets were arranged by trade—textiles, silverwork, shoes and sandals, and the like. Nowadays less so, but the exiting and intoxicating atmosphere and beautifully organised chaos is still strikingly evident.
The Ho Chi Minh Museum, as the name implies, is dedicated to a single person: Ho Chi Minh. Born Nguyen That Thanh, he adopted the name Ho Chi Minh, meaning the Bringer of Light, when he founded the Viet Minh, a communist-dominated independence movement, to fight the Japanese. Ho Chi Minh was the leader of the Vietnamese nationalist movement and the President of North Vietnam from 1954 till his death in 1969.
The museum is dedicated to his many contributions in the fields of culture, education and the arts, and his devotion to the national liberation of the Vietnamese people, and contributing to the common struggle of peoples for peace, national independence, democracy and social progress.[1]
The interesting aspect of the museum is that a wider and more multivariegated view than the politically correct version of UNESCO, is presented.
A bewildering assemblage of objects and images is shown. What to make, for instance, of these photos (shown below) reproduced on glass and accessible from both sides.




  






















The interpretation of the ones below seems clear: …common struggle of peoples for peace, national independence, democracy and social progress.

Definitely worth a visit, and if the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is open, I do recommend you join the silent queue of people filing past his tomb.



















I also recommend a visit to the Temple of Literature. Within the temple the first university of Vietnam, the Imperial Academy, was established to educate the nobles, royalty, bureaucrats and other members of the elite. Founded in 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, the temple, one of Hanoi's finest historical and cultural sites, is dedicated to Confucius.
Main entrance
 
 Serene tranquility inside the compound



 
Confucius





































Hoa Lo Prison main gate
For those of us who remember Jane Fonda as an anti-war protester, a visit to the Hoa Lo Prison, or the Hanoi Hilton as it was called by the American prisoners of war, a visit would be interesting.
It is a bit simple in its portrayal of "how well we treated the American POWs" compared to "how badly the French treated our independence fighters", but worth a visit anyway.







[1] UNESCO, Records of the General Conference, 24th Session, Paris 1987

No comments:

Post a Comment