Yesterday's reference to colonial history reminded me of my first experience with colonialism and some of the extreme forms it, sometimes in certain cases, took. I arrived in Malawi (my first overseas posting) only a few months before it was officially granted its Independence.
Located in southern central Africa, south of Tanzania, it was known as the Nyasaland Protectorate. The name change to Malawi took place in 1964, followed two year later by Independence.
But that was not the 'colonial' experience I was referring to above. Before departing for Malawi I lived in Amsterdam on one of the canals and frequently went to a pub around the corner. When the publican heard that I was to leave for Malawi he said that he knew Malawi.
It used to be called Nyasaland, he continued. I went there once when my ship was docked in Beira for repairs. The second mate and myself had nothing to do and took a train trip to Nyasaland. We went to Blantyre and Zomba and as far as Fort Johnston (nowadays called Mangochi) where we were received and put up by the District Commissioner. This was in the 20s and district commissioners in those isolated posts would not have many white visitors. So he was glad for the distraction we offered and our stories of life on a tramp cargo ship. When at the end of the evening he told us to join him the next day for his morning swim we were aghast and asked how safe that was in view of crocodiles. No problem, he replied, just join me tomorrow morning at six and you'll see.
That morning we joined him, a bit nervous about the undertaking, but our apprehension turned to utter disbelief when we arrived at the stretch of the Shire River where we were going to swim. Forming a semi-circle some 50 or maybe even 100 Africans were standing waist-deep in the river and the District Commissioner, after having taken off his bathrobe, jumped into this safe area.
When in Malawi I asked some of the colonial officers who had stayed on to assist the new Republic in its administration about this story. Oh yes, they replied, that bugger was a character, but of course fairly bonkers…!
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